Cruising through Tracy Arm Fjord, Alaksa

Tracy Arm Fjord

Thursday June, 9, 2011

This is why you go on an Alaskan Cruise!  The scenery is breathtaking and the scale of the mountains, glaciers and icebergs is awe inspiring.  We sailed through Tracy Arm Fjord all the way to Sawyer Glacier, and then turned around and sailed back out. The whole journey took about 5 or 6 hours with the ship only going 6 knots. The waterway through the fjord winds and curves around the mountains and it is quite narrow, making it easy to see the shore on either side. 

Entering the narrow waterways of Tracy Arm Fjord. 

All the specks in the water are chunks of ice.

We saw our first iceberg just after entering the fjord. And we continued to see two or three at a time as we sailed.

First iceberg spotted.

More icebergs.

But the closer we sailed to the glacier, the more icebergs we saw. By the time we reached the cove where Sawyer Glacier was located, the water was sprinkled with icebergs all around. 

The cove with Sawyer Glacier in the background

From our seventh floor balcony, most of the icebergs looked quite small. But then you’d see a two-story tourist boat sail near one, go around it and disappear from view. Only then would you realize just how big the iceberg was – bigger than a small ship. And that was just the part of the iceberg we could see from the surface.  It certainly gave us a first-hand perspective of the phrase “The tip of the iceberg”.

This is one of the biggest icebergs we saw. It's probably 3-stories high.

We spent most of the day on the aft balcony with the rest of the family. The balcony was plenty big, with a couple of lounge chairs and 4 deck chairs. We also set up a tripod with a scope to better see the scenery up close.  

Jackson is looking for bears on shore. 

We'd have to wait til the next day before we saw one, though.

We had a ham radio with us that was scanning the marine channels. Whenever another ship was spotted nearby, we could hear the two captains talking to each other.  Most of the other ships were either fishing boats or double-decker tourist boats. But at one point we heard our captain say the Disney Wonder was approaching from behind.

The Disney Wonder coming around the bend.

Waving to our fellow cruisers on the Disney Wonder

Our ship maneuvered to one side of the water to allow it to pass.  I don’t think the two ships would normally be traveling through the fjord so close together.  But the medical emergency earlier in the day resulted in our ship being a little behind schedule.  Because of that delay, the Disney ship passed us and then parked right up next to the glacier per their schedule.  Since the cove was not big enough for two ships to maneuver and turn around in, we had to park further out and view the glacier from afar. There were also several icebergs floating in the cove with seal pups sunbathing on them and our captain didn’t want to risk disturbing or endangering them.  

The Disney Wonder at Sawyer Glacier

As we sailed throughout the fjord that day, the onboard Naturalist would make announcements whenever wildlife or something interesting was spotted.  In addition to the seal pups mentioned above, we also saw lots of bald eagles, mountain goats, and yes ---- we saw whales.

 

Let me just stop for a minute and say that I have a newfound respect and admiration for National Geographic photographers.  I have no idea how anyone manages to take a picture of a whale. By the time my brain registered that I had just seen a whale breach the surface and I reached for my camera, the whale would be gone.  And when I sat there with my camera trained on a spot where whales had been spotted, the whale would then breach the surface again somewhere else!  So although I don’t have any pictures of the whales we saw, the memories will last forever.

There was one whale in particular that we will never forget.  He kept breaching the surface just outside our balcony.  In fact, he did it so much that Jackson nicknamed him “Showoff”.  And even though I never captured  a picture of “Showoff”, I did manage to get some video of his blow. “Blow” is what Michelle, the naturalist, calls it when a whale sprays water from his spout. Throughout the day we saw lots of blows even when we didn’t see the actual whales.

See the spray of water from a whale on the right side.

I also want to mention that the day before when our captain gave a brief talk in the auditorium, he was introduced as the most senior captain in the entire Carnival fleet. Captain Roberto Volpi. So we knew we were in capable hands as our ship wove its way through the fjord skirting around the many icebergs.

Winding our way through Tracy arm Fjord

We ended our afternoon with a game of miniature golf on the top deck. I don’t think we’ll ever play another course with scenery as beautiful as this one!

Playing miniature golf on the top deck of the
Carnival Spirit as we sail through Tracy Arm Fjord

That evening we had another great dinner in the Empire Dining Room followed by a midnight snack of calzones and ice cream on the Lido Deck. I think we could get used to living like this!

Alaska Cruise: Full Speed Ahead & Coast Guard Airlift

Full Speed Ahead

We’ve been on our cruise now since Tuesday and have been at sea for a little over two full days, sailing from Seattle to Alaska aboard the Carnival Spirit.  And let me tell you, this ship was all but flying through the water.  Wednesday, our day-at-sea, we were going full speed at 22 knots, and continued at warp speed through the night as winds picked up to 38mph. We were literally rocking and rolling through the north Pacific.  Jackson, Freddie and Nana started feeling seasick and nauseous. But after wearing the Sea Band acupressure wrist bands we bought at Walgreens, they never felt sick again.

Taken from the top deck as we sail through Tracy Arm

Today as we entered Alaska territory, I can honestly say we did not miss those 100+ temps that we left behind in Texas. The weather today was fabulous, with a high around 60. 

Lots of people enjoyed swimming today in the covered pool on the Lido Deck

Several people were even walking around in shorts. And the temperature on an aft balcony felt considerably warmer than the temperature on top deck or side balconies. Probably because the wind was blocked when we were on the back deck and we had the sun shining directly on us.  So we chose to spend most of the day on our family's wraparound aft balcony where both the view and temperatures were great.

My sister-in-law Leah enjoying the warm temperatures
from her aft balcony as we sail through Tracy Arm fjord.
That's Nana in the background looking for wildlife.

We didn’t actually dock in Alaska and get off the ship today, but we spent the day sailing through the Tracy Arm Fjord to Sawyer Glacier.  And we all agree – this is the reason you go on an Alaskan Cruise. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking. We saw several whales breach the surface and saw several “blows”.  That’s what Michelle, the onboard naturalist, calls it when the whale blows water from his spout. But it all happens so fast that it's impossible to take a picture.

Medical Emergency

Unfortunately, our day did begin on a sad note. As we were getting ready for breakfast we heard an announcement come over the speaker in our cabin. Announcements are usually only heard in the hallways and common areas, unless it’s something very important. This announcement said, “Sierra Team to the Lido Deck. Elevator 11”. We found out later that a passenger had collapsed in front of the elevators from an apparent heart attack. A couple of hours after that announcement, we found out just how serious the situation was.  

As we approached the entrance to Tracy Arm, the captain made an announcement that we would be delaying our journey through the fjord for about an hour and a half because an ill passenger needed to be airlifted off the ship. And since helicopters are not allowed to fly into Tracy Arm Fjord, the ship had to stop where we were and wait for the Coast Guard helicopter to arrive. The captain then asked everyone to clear the back of the Lido Deck where the Coast Guard would do the airlift. There isn’t a landing pad on the ship, so the helicopter would have to hover overhead.  After the crew blocked off the back of the Lido Deck, the fire brigade came out with their giant water hoses and stood by waiting at attention – in case there was an accident with the helicopter and they needed to put out a fire.

My inlaws had an aft balcony cabin just below the Lido Deck, so we headed there to watch for the Coast Guard helicopter's approach. The captain had said it would be coming from Sitka, Alaska.  

The whole family gathered on the balcony to watch

the Coast Guard helicopter's approach.

Soon we heard the hum of a helicopter and saw a black speck coming over the mountain top. 

It hovered directly over us and lowered a basket with a Coast Guard rescue swimmer to the deck above us. The wind from the helicopter was so powerful that I had to hold my camera with two hands to keep it from being blown away! And the spray from the ocean could be felt seven decks up.

Watching as one of the Coast Guard officers
is being lowered to the Lido Deck

 It seemed like it took about a half hour after the basket was lowered before the passenger was ready (stable?) to be airlifted. Meanwhile, the helicopter just circled the ship.  About that time, one of the ship’s officers leaned over the top deck and asked everyone on the many different balconies to please go inside for our safety (and probably out of respect and privacy for the passenger, too).  Earlier when the helicopter had been hovering over us, I remember thinking that any sudden wind shear would send it crashing down on our deck! So we quickly went inside and waited, saying a prayer for the passenger who was being airlifted. We could still see them out our window, and just as the basket reached the helicopter we noticed the passenger’s arms moving around. So it was a little encouraging to know they were at least conscious. The captain then made one final announcement that the passenger was safely aboard the Coast Guard helicopter and would be at a hospital in Juneau in about 10 minutes. (Later that evening the Cruise Director announced that the passenger was stable and showing signs of improvement in the hospital).

After the brief delay, the Captain proceeded to Tracy Arm Fjord at a leisurely 6 knots so we could enjoy all the magnificent scenery.  I'll post more on Tracy Arm after we return from our train ride from Skagway into the Yukon Territory.

Thank God I'm not a crayon!

School's out and summer has arrived in Central Texas! It looks like it'll be a scorcher this year, too. Last week temperatures reached 103 degrees. That was the same day my sister posted this picture on Facebook. Pretty much sums up Texas Summers!

"Thank God I'm not a crayon in Texas!"

SIX FLAGS FIESTA TEXAS

Summer is just around the corner and for my family that means visiting at least one theme park before school starts.  If my kids had their way, we'd go see the giant mouse every year.  But in those off years when we're not visiting the mouse's kingdom, we head to one of the two Six Flags theme parks in Texas -- the original Six Flags Over Texas located near Dallas-Fort Worth or Six Flags Fiesta Texas in San Antonio. 

What makes Fiesta Texas unique?

Most people are familiar with the Six Flags theme parks, but Fiesta Texas is unique in that it is essentially two parks in one.  Did you know that Six Flags Fiesta Texas was originally an Opryland-owned  "show park"? When it originally opened, the focus was on providing fabulous live entertainment with a few rides thrown in to occupy the younger crowds.  Then Six Flags purchased Fiesta Texas, and they brought in all the thrill rides they're famous for while continuing to provide the award-winning shows that people had come to expect and enjoy at this particular park.  So while you'll find many thrill seekers at Fiesta Texas who come to enjoy the eight rollercoasters, there are also those who come just to enjoy the live entertainment.

Award-Winning Shows

Fiesta Texas calls itself America's number one show park, and with good reason.  For the past 10 years it has won the Golden Ticket Award for "Best Theme Park Shows in the Country". The Golden Ticket awards are the Oscars of the amusement industry.

In addition to the Golden Ticket Award, Fiesta Texas also employs several IAAPA (International Association of Amusement Parks and Attractions) hall of famers -- including Paul Carter who won last year's IAAPA "Male Performer of the Year".

Every January, you'll find a tall stack of resumes from performers around the country who want an audition with Fiesta Texas.  And once they're hired, you'll find that many of them come back to perform year after year and even develop a loyal following of fans.  As an aside, during the park's off-season several of these entertainers take working vacations performing on cruise ships.

So while the kids are waiting in line for the thrill rides, go enjoy some of the award-winning shows at Fiesta Texas.

The Rockville High Theater

This air-conditioned indoor venue showcases nostalgic Rock-n-Roll.  Their classic "Rockin' at Rockville High" is a perennial favorite and will no doubt remind you of the movie "Grease". This particular show has repeatedly won "Best Show in the Country" and is entertaining for audiences of all ages.  But be warned -- if you sit up front or in an aisle seat -- you may be pulled onstage and become part of the entertainment! The other show performed in this theater is one that features 70s rock and disco.

Students from Rockville High

Sundance Theater

On the opposite side of the park you'll find this covered outdoor pavilion featuring Country music.  "Rockin' the Country" showcases the latest chart toppers as well as a few timeless favorites while "Straight Country" is the show to see if you want to hear Classic Country and Bluegrass.

Straight Country

Rockin' the Country

Sangerfest Halle

I like to time our meals around the various shows in Sangerfest Halle, a traditional German-style hall with wall to wall picnic tables and a stage at one end.  It is centrally located and offers the best variety of menu choices. You'll find something to please everyone in Sangerfest -- burgers & pizza, as well as German & Mexican foods. As an added bonus, it's indoors which means air conditioning and a break from the heat.  This is also the place to go if you want to meet your favorite Looney Tunes characters.

Teatro Fiesta

"Ritmos del Corazon" is an 'energetic Latin show' that draws in large crowds year after year to this outdoor theater.

Zaragoza Theater

This theater located near the park entrance has traditionally been home to large seasonal productions, like the annual Christmas pageant.  But this year it will feature "Ovation", a Broadway-style musical that is sure to be another crowd pleaser.

Lone Star Nights

Be sure you stay until the very end so that you can enjoy this narrative that celebrates the history of Texas with a laser light show and ends with a fireworks spectacular.

Don't be shocked . . .

There's one last thing that I have to tell you about Six Flags -- be prepared to take out a second mortgage to feed your family!  Everyone expects to pay through the nose for food at theme parks.  But, in my opinion, Six Flags takes it to a whole new obscene level. It's unfortunate that they don't follow Disney's lead and allow guests to bring in their own food and drinks. But Six Flags' policy is "No outside food, beverages or coolers are allowed to be brought into Six Flags Fiesta Texas". And they strictly enforce this rule. They made us empty water bottles and throw away a baggie of Goldfish Snacks that we brought for the kids. Ridiculous!

Just so you'll know how much of a loan you need before going to Six Flags, I'll leave you with some pictures of the "Deals" we found when we there in April 2011.

Did you read the small print at the bottom?
If you wish to upgrade the four drinks to
sports bottles, the meal will cost you $85!

Family Meal Deals for 4 will cost you $44.99!

And if you're dining solo, be prepared to shell out
$9.99 for any of the individual meals at Panda Express.
That's without a drink.

 A burger and fries -- without a drink -- will cost you $11.99.

Your best bet for drinks is to buy a sports bottle
for $13.99 because you get free refills all day long.

Yes, you read that correctly!
A pickle-flavored snow cone.

FREDERICKSBURG

This quaint little German town in the Texas Hill Country has become world renowned as a vacation destination.  Fortunately for those of us who live in Central Texas, it is only 75 miles west of Austin -- perfect for a weekend getaway.  Main Street in Frederiscksburg offers some of the best eating and shopping in Texas. I never get tired of spending hours (and dollars) walking up and down Main Street. Fredericksburg is also home to several great wineries with  tasting rooms open to the public. And for those who enjoy outdoor adventures, Enchanted Rock is a destination unto itself.

Hangar Hotel

http://www.hangarhotel.com/

Fredericksburg offers a variety of lodging options.  But if you're looking for a unique experience, and not just a place to sleep, then I highly recommend the Hangar Hotel.  This 50-room boutique hotel is located adjacent to the Gillespie County Airport, but it's not just for pilots. Anyone can reserve a room at this World War II era hotel. As soon as you step into the hotel lobby, the decor and music will transport you back to the 1940s.

Even if you don't reserve a room at the Hangar Hotel, be sure to visit the classic 1940s Airport Diner. While enjoying your Bomber Burger and Chocolate Malt from a booth inside this chrome diner, you'll also have a front-row seat of the runway and be able to watch planes take off and land just a few feet away.

Other lodging options include chain hotels, campgrounds and Bed-and-Breakfasts. As I mentioned in a previous blog, we frequently camp at the Lady Bird Johnson Park located just a few miles from downtown.  But if you're going to Fredericksburg for a romantic weekend, then be sure to research the local B-n-B's. http://www.fredericksburg-lodging.com/properties.asp. I've never stayed at one, so please share with us if you have a favorite!

Fredericksburg Brewing Company

http://www.yourbrewery.com/

The Fredericksburg Brewing Company, conveniently located on Main Street, is both a microbrewery and a restaurant.  It's one of our favorite places to eat in town.  And given the wait times for a table, it's safe to say that we're not the only ones who like it. But the huge biergarten at the rear of the restaurant has large picnic tables and a giant projection screen TV to help you pass the time while waiting for a table. It's also a great place to park your husband for a few hours while you shop. The food at the Fredericksburg Brewing Company is delicious and the menu offers something for everyone, from authentic German fare to Chicken Fried Steak and 1/2-lb burgers. But be sure to save room for one of their homemade desserts, even if you have to share it with someone. And if you're a beer drinker, you'll want buy a Growler to take with you when you leave.

Shopping

I often sit around the house daydreaming about opening my own shop on Main Street in Fredericksburg. And just when I think I've come up with a great idea for something new, I look online and find that someone else has beat me to the punch. There are so many unique and diverse shops in town, that it is impossible to name them all. You'll find shops dedicated to everything from antiques to home decor to dog apparel. 

And then there's that one store my children beg to go to every single time we visit Fredericksburg. Now you have to understand . . . my children hate to shop. They would rather take a bath than go shopping. But Spunky Monkey Toys on Main Street http://www.spunkymonkeytoys.com/ is one of the most eccentric toy stores in the Hill Country and is a favorite for kids of all ages.  In fact, I often bribe my kids with a toy from Spunky Monkey if they'll first go with me to the 10,000sf Christmas Store  http://www.christmasstorefred.com/index.html or Der Kuchen Laden http://littlechef.com/ to look at kitchen gadgets and cookie cutters.  Another favorite shop is Dogologie http://store.dogologie.com/dogologie/ where you can find apparel, costumes and accessories for your favorite furry friends.

Becker Vineyards

 http://www.beckervineyards.com/

Becker Vineyards is one of the most popular and beautiful wineries in Texas. Their wines, which have won numerous awards, really gained prominence after being served in the Bush White House.  The winery's large tasting room is always crowded on weekends with visitors paying their $10 for six wine samples. And during special events like their Annual Grape Stomp, the tasting line can even snake through the tasting room, into the gift shop and out the front door. But as crowded as the tasting room can get, the grounds of the vineyard are spacious and beautifully decorated with acres of lavender fields. So bring a blanket and picnic when you go so you can sit outside to enjoy your favorite glass of wine.

National Museum of the Pacific War

http://www.pacificwarmuseum.org/

This museum was originally named the Admiral Nimitz Museum after the Fredericksburg native son who commanded the US and Allied Forces in the Pacific theater during World War II.  In fact, the original section of the museum is located in the old Nimitz Hotel, owned by the Admiral's Grandfather and home to the Admiral during his early childhood. Plan on spending most of your day here when you visit because the museum encompasses several buildings and outdoor exhibits. The museum tells the story of the Pacific War from Pearl Harbor to Tokyo Bay.  Among the museum's many exhibits, you'll see both Allied and Japanese aircraft and tanks, as well as a fully-restored PT Boat.

Enchanted Rock

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/publications/parkguide/rgn_hc_009.phtml

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area is a large pink granite dome that dominates the skyline just outside of town. It was named by the Tonkawa Indians in the 1700s who believed ghosts inhabited the rock. The park today is extremely popular for rock climbers and often reaches capacity before noon on weekends. So arrive early enough to start your climb before the heat and the crowds arrive.

Camping in Central Texas

It's Springtime and that means camping. We're fortunate in Central Texas to have several great campgrounds all within an hour of Austin. I've listed a few of our favorites below.

Bastrop State Park

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/bastrop/

You've heard me say it before ... Texas has some wonderful State Parks. Bastrop State Park, located about 30 miles east of Austin along Highway 71,  is one of those parks that can be enjoyed year round. When I was young, we had several Family Reunions there. They have great group facilities, including group barracks and a large dining hall with kitchen. Other facilities include camp sites with water/electric and rustic cabins. We love to reserve a cabin in the Fall after the weather turns cool because each cabin comes with a beautiful stone fireplace. They vary in size and can sleep 2-8 people depending on which one you reserve. But they only have a handful of cabins, so plan ahead and make your reservations early if you want to stay in one.

Cabin at Bastrop State Park

As for activities, hiking is my kids' favorite thing to do when we're camping at Bastrop. When you arrive, be sure to ask the Park Ranger for a trail map. The trails are clearly marked and my kids enjoy the competition of finding the next trail marker. The park also has a swimming pool that is open seasonally. And, my husband's favorite, is the golf course. Yes, there is indeed an 18-hole course located in Bastrop State Park. The Lost Pines Golf Club.

Lady Bird Johnson Park, Fredericksburg, TX

http://www.fbgtx.org/departments/ladybirdpark.htm

If you haven't been to Fredericksburg, then get there soon! It is my favorite place to go for a weekend getaway. Fredericksburg is about 75 miles west of Austin on Highway 290. Look for my blog dedicated to Fredericksburg soon!

Pavillion at Lady Bird Johnson Park

Lady Bird Johnson Park is another fun place for a Family Reunion or weekend campout. They have several pavillions that can be rented for group gatherings. The park also has a swimming pool, playground and golf course. The RV sites have water/electric/cable TV hookups. But the number one reason my kids love to camp at this particular park is the Gillespie County Airport located next door. It's fun to watch all the private planes take off and land.

Granger Lake

http://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/granger/index.asp

Fishing for your supper

Granger Lake is located northeast of Austin, between the towns of Taylor and Granger. Fishing seems to be the number one activity when camping at Granger Lake. But they also have a swimming beach and a nice hiking trail. If you go hiking, be sure to see the 'haunted bridge'.  Local legend says a prisoner was hanged near the old Hoxie Bridge and his ghost haunts the area today. http://www.williamson-county-historical-commission.org/the_Hoxie_Bridge_in_Taylor_park_granger_texas.htm 

The famous haunted bridge at Granger Lake

When it comes to campsites, Granger Lake gets extra brownie points for having covered picnic areas at each individual campsite.

Yogi Bear's Jellystone Park, Canyon Lake, TX

http://www.jellystonehillcountry.com/jellystone-hill-country

This family-friendly campground is located 45 miles south of Austin, near two popular water holes -- Canyon Lake and the Guadalupe River. Facilities include both RV sites and cottages. If you're not spending the day tubing on the Guadalupe or fishing at the lake, there are plenty of other activities for kids at the campground. When we stayed there, daily hayrides were on the agenda. And my kids loved renting a pedal bike and riding it around camp. Other activities onsite include an indoor heated pool, game room, lazer tag, and more.

Other Campgrounds to Try

I currently have three other campgrounds on my radar that I want to visit sometime soon.
1) Canyon of the Eagles, northwest of Austin. http://www.lcra.org/parks/developed_parks/canyon.html
2) Koyote Ranch, near Bandera. http://www.koyoteranch.com/
3) The other Jellystone campground located in Waller, northwest of Houston. They have a giant waterslide which the kids are anxious to try! http://www.jellystonetexas.com/Default.aspx

If you have a favorite campground that was not mentioned above, please let us know. We're always looking for new adventures!